Legacy of Queens and Kings

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Queens of Kings

Move along Kings, now its the Queens time to shine, and into the Valley of the Queens we go.

Although only three or four tombs are currently open to visitors, the Valley of the Queens contains at least 75 tombs belonging to queens of the 19th and 20th Dynasties, as well as other royal family members, including princesses and Ramesside princes. The most famous is the Tomb of Nefertari, and the others include those of Titi, Khaemwaset, and Amunherkhepshef.

Nefertari’s tomb is often called the “Sistine Chapel of ancient Egypt” for its vibrant, detailed artwork, and it was meant to be one of the highlights of my trip. Until I found out it was closed.

This is where I get a little miffed about the lack of clear, up-to-date information when planning trips to places where such info isn’t exactly so readily available. So, consider this a bit of a PSA too.

The Tomb of Nefertari is like Seti I’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings: expensive, expansive, impressive, and frequently closed. It’s not included in the Valley of the Queens general ticket (which covers the other three tombs) and requires a separate 2000 EGP ticket—for just 10 minutes inside.

It’s said to be one of the best-preserved historical sites in all of Egypt. Though relatively small—only three accessible chambers—the paintings are so pristine, they look like they were just finished. I was genuinely excited to see it.

At the time of my visit (January 2025), it was marked “Temporarily Closed” on Google Maps that morning, and when I arrived, the caretakers confirmed it had shut down just three days prior for urgent restoration. And honestly, I completely understand and appreciate how quickly they act at even the slightest signs of deterioration—even if it did rain a little on my parade.

What I don’t appreciate, though, is the black hole of information surrounding these closures. As I write this (April 2025), I’ve been periodically checking Google Maps, forums, and every other possible channel for updates over the past four months. And let me tell you—the closure schedule is as spontaneous as it gets.
Right now? “Temporarily Closed” again.
Five days ago? “Open during usual hours.”

Moral of the story? Be flexible i guess.
As much as you’re on holiday and have your heart set on certain sites, things happen. At least you know they’re doing what’s best for the preservation of these incredible monuments.

So rather than simmering in disappointment, i moved onto the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, and the word ‘impressive’ doesn’t even begin to cover it.

Legacy Etched In Stone

From the ticket office, you can already catch a slight glimpse of its grandeur in the distance, as rising up almost 30m from the desert floor, the Temple of Hatshepsut, also called Djeser-Djeseru (“Holy of Holies”), is one of ancient Egypt’s greatest architectural masterpieces. Commissioned by Queen Hatshepsut, Egypt’s most successful and my personal favorite female pharaoh, the tomb was designed by her royal architect Senmut.

The temple is famous for its stunning, modern-looking design—three colossal terraces rising directly against a backdrop of towering limestone cliffs, almost as if it were carved straight of the rock cliffs themselves. And as with many monuments in Egypt, it wasn’t spared from the usual historical vandalism: Tuthmosis III removed his stepmother’s name whenever he could; Akhenaten removed all references to Amun; and the early Christians turned it into a monastery, you know, the usual stuff.

Wide ramps connect each terrace, and elegant colonnades frame reliefs that narrate her divine birth, expeditions to the rich land of Punt, and her unprecedented rule as a female king. The temple was not just a memorial for Hatshepsut, but a place to honor the gods, especially Amun-Ra, to whom it was primarily dedicated.

The terraces were originally lined with gardens and incense trees. Hatshepsut imported frankincense and myrrh from Punt (modern Eritrea/Somalia). Near the entrance, you can even spot a fenced-off stump from one of these ancient trees.

By the time I arrived, it was midday, and the crowds were out in full force. Pockets 360EGP lighter, I began what I can only describe as a pilgrimage. Not in the religious sense—though the sunlight bouncing off the white stone was so blinding I nearly found God(s). (Bring sunglasses. Seriously.)

The approach up the two ramps feels symbolic, like retracing the path of ancient priests—while simultaneously dodging modern-day tour groups and overly committed photographers.

Once at the top, the cliffs of Deir el-Bahari loom 300 something meters above the desert, forming a dramatic backdrop that amplifies the temple’s stature. On the third terrace, some of the 24 colossal Osiris statues still stand, leading to the Sanctuary of Amun. It’s modest compared to the outer temple—carved into the cliff, with minimal decoration—but still retains ancient pigments, especially the blue-painted starry ceiling.

Other than the main sanctuary of the temple, the best-preserved reliefs are on the middle terrace. On the north colonnade record Hatshepsut’s divine birth and at the end of it is the Chapel of Anubis, with well-preserved colorful reliefs of a disfigured Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis III in the presence of Anubis, Ra-Horakhty and Hathor.

The Punt Colonnade to the left of the entrance tell the story of the expedition to the Land of Punt to collect myrrh trees needed for the incense used in temple ceremonies. There are depictions of the strange animals and exotic plants seen there, the foreign architecture and landscapes as well as the different-looking people. At the end of this colonnade is the Hathor Chapel, with two chambers both with Hathor-headed columns. Reliefs on the west wall show Hathor as a cow licking Hatshepsut’s hand, and the queen drinking from Hathor’s udder. On the north wall is a faded relief of Hatshepsut’s soldiers in naval dress in the goddess’ honor.

How did i know all this? Well, the blessing (and curse) of being surrounded by tour groups is that while they’re a navigational nightmare, their guides are loud enough that you can get a free tour just by existing near them.

Silver linings, mates. Silver linings.

Stories Written In Blood

Medinat Habu was the next stop.

Originally built by Hatshepsut and Tuthmosis III as the Temple of Amun, it was repurposed as the Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III. The temple complex served as both a place of worship and a fortified administrative center during Ramses III’s reign, reflecting both his power and the turbulence of the time. The temple itself follows the traditional layout: monumental pylons, open courtyards, hypostyle halls, and an inner sanctuary.

In my previous post i briefly described how Ramesses III tomb contained inscriptions depicting the tales of when he defended Egypt against the Sea Peoples, but here you can find that same story but fully blown out in stone carved upon the first pylon, adorned with dramatic scenes of Ramses III defeating the invaders whose defeat helped secure Egypt’s borders. One of the most striking and gruesome scenes shows rows of severed hands and genitals, counted as trophies from defeated enemies, a graphic representation of military triumph.

It served not just as his mortuary temple, but also as a political statement about Egypt’s strength and divine protection. Many of the reliefs still retain their original colors as well, a much needed reprise from shades of beige and brown, and offering a glimpse of how the carvings and art were colored back in the day,

Something i found personally quite fascinating about this temple is in its particularly deep carving style. The carvings are not just shallow reliefs like the ones that can be found in almost all the other temples, they are deeply incised into the stone, creating an almost three-dimensional effect that is particularly striking under the Egyptian sunlight, The deep carving style also made it more difficult for later rulers to erase or modify these depictions, contributing to their preservation. I believe this type of carvings are called sunk reliefs, according to one of the guides there, and are used more on exterior walls exposed to sunlight, whereas raised reliefs appears more often in interiors, allowing paint to adhere better.

Legacy left in Shambles

Last stop on my West Bank adventure: the Colossi of Memnon.

Not going to lie, i was expecting more. Don’t get me wrong, the sentinel statues of the Colossi of Memnon stands an impressive 18m tall, and were originally constructed to guard the entrance to Amenhotep III’s mortuary temple. With such lofty descriptions scattered bout the interwebs you’d naturally have some vague but fairly glorified assumptions of what they would be like. But alas, reality is cruel.

The actual statues themselves are impressive yes, but its surroundings are unfortunately not. Situated smack in the middle of what seems like a dumping ground of stone and industrial waste, and literally surrounded by the commercial hustle and bustle of vendors who set up shop in the near vicinity selling their wares and trinkets, the semi derelict statues are perhaps the most well preserved items in the entire complex. The complex is supposedly ‘still undergoing’ excavation, but with the most recent report of it being from 2011 stating ‘halted due to lack of funds’, i do not foresee much work going to preserving these magnificent statues, as well upholding public order in the vicinity.

Entry into the space is free, there are no gates, checkpoints, nor tickets required to visit the statues, and security is lackluster, it kinda is everyone’s land there. Just getting in and out to snap a couple pictures felt like i just signed up for the Hunger Games dodging grabby hands and eager vendors instead of arrows and projectiles.

A sad state of things for the Colossi of Memnon, which is actually quite rich in history as the statues once flanked the entrance to what was one of the largest temples in ancient Egypt, after an earthquake, the northern statue began to emit mysterious whistling sounds, which the Greeks interpreted as the voice of the mythological hero Memnon, a hero of the Trojan War, giving the statues their famous name. Though the “singing” ceased after the Romans repaired it. It is only a shadow of its grand legacy, basically decimated with nothing but scraps and the two statues left.

What’s Next?

After a rather anti-climatic end to what was a breathtaking experience at the West Bank, it was time to recharge and reset once again, for it was going to be yet another long day to another two unmissable temples near Luxor – The Temple or Hathor at Dendera, and the Temple of Seti I at Abydos.

Shadows of Gods and Pharaohs

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Nature’s Burial Grounds

If the cover picture wasn’t obvious enough, in this post we’re heading into the Land of the Dead laddies. So buckle up, grab your Indiana Jones hats, and stay hydrated for we’re about to head deep under.

In the previous post, I was gallivanting around with the living on the East Bank, reset for the night, and kicked off another early morning to re-explore Karnak Temple in natural light—free of those cheap 80s “Egyptian-inspired” audio tracks and cringy visuals from the Light and Sound show. After that peaceful reboot, it was time to meet my designated driver for the day and head west—into the Land of the Dead.

The necropolis is on the West Bank for symbolic reasons: it lies beneath the pyramid-shaped peak of al-Qurn (“The Horn”), reinforcing spiritual connections to resurrection and the sun god Ra.

On a practical level, the valley’s remote and rugged terrain made it ideal for hiding and protecting royal tombs from looters—unlike the very conspicuous pyramids of earlier dynasties. The limestone cliffs made for perfect rock-cut tombs, and it was just a stone’s throw from Deir el-Medina, where the tomb builders and artisans lived, worked, and were eventually buried themselves.

And that’s where the journey truly begins: The Valley of the Kings.

Land of the Dead

The Valley of the Kings is one of the most iconic archaeological sites in the world, serving as the royal burial ground for pharaohs and elite nobles of Egypt’s New Kingdom, it replaced the earlier pyramid tombs of the Old and Middle Kingdoms and marked a shift to hidden, rock-cut tombs to protect against tomb robbers.

The tombs aren’t just burial chambers—they play a vital role in the art of the Egyptian afterlife. The walls are covered in spells from the Book of the Dead, constellations, gods, serpents, and elaborate scenes guiding the pharaoh’s soul through the underworld. Even thousands of years later, the colors are so vivid you’d swear they were painted last week. Many tombs were plundered in antiquity, but the wall art and architecture remain significant sources of religious and historical insight.

Over 60 something tombs have been discovered, ranging from simple pits to multi-chambered maze structures. Your general entrance ticket allows you to visit three tombs of your choice from a rotating list of open tombs. Do note, certain high-profile tombs require separate, additional tickets due to their significance, preservation needs, or popularity.

These tombs are:
KV62 – Tutankhamun (King Tut)
KV9 – Ramses V & VI
KV17 – Seti I

If you wish to visit more than three tombs, you need to purchase an additional standard entry ticket, while i would only recommend this for true tomb raiders only, as going from tomb to tomb to tomb can can rather repetitive after awhile and may lose its initial wow factor, each tomb is still individually unique and no one tomb is exactly the same.

As of 2025 the currently accessible tombs are:​

KV1 – Ramesses VII
KV2 – Ramesses IV
KV6 – Ramesses IX
KV8 – Merenptah
KV11 – Ramesses III
KV14 – Tausert and Setnakht
KV15 – Seti II
KV16 – Ramesses I
KV43 – Thutmose IV
KV47 – Siptah

But before I dive into the tombs I explored and the reasons behind my choices, let’s talk logistics.

Logistics Talking

While you can buy the general Valley of the Kings ticket online through the Egypt Monuments site, I’d actually recommend getting to the Valley early and purchasing your tickets in person. Why? Because if you want to visit the tombs of Ramses V & VI or Seti I, you must buy those tickets on-site—they’re not available online. Plus, the list of accessible tombs can change due to ongoing conservation work, excavations, or restoration. It’s best to check current availability at the visitor center upon arrival since much of that info isn’t available online.

Regardless of the season, the Valley of the Kings gets hot by midday. You’re exposed to the elements, and unless you’re inside a tomb or at a rest stop, shade is extremely limited.

The Valley of the Kings is also one of the highlights of any Egypt trip, needless to say, everyone and anyone will have the same idea of ‘beating the crowd’ by either getting there early or late. So if you can’t beat the crowd, at least stay ahead of it. Trust me, the tombs are not exactly spacious, the last thing you need is being sardined 40m deep underground with a throng of equally sweaty tired tourists (yourself included). The air outside may be hot and arid, but within the tombs, depending on the crowd, can be either fairly cool, or toasty and humid.

Upon arrival at the Valley of the Kings, once you pass through the ticket checkpoint, make sure you have cash for the tram ride. The tram costs 20 EGP per person for a round trip ride. From the tram, it’s a relatively short, uphill walk to get to the entrances of the tombs.

Most tombs are relatively low-mobility friendly (take that with a grain of salt). They typically have wooden planks with steps to help you descend, which—while not exactly ergonomic—add to the tomb raider atmosphere. However, this does make accessibility difficult for those with mobility challenges. Some physical activity is necessary; you’re descending 20–40 meters into the earth, after all. Wear comfortable shoes and clothes, and bring a light jacket for removable layers. Temperatures vary wildly depending on the time of day and whether you’re inside or outside a tomb.

Some tombs are also located a little off the main path, so some light hiking may be required too. Here is a map of the valley just to give you an idea

No matter how fit you are, you will find that, especially in neglected tombs without proper air circulation equipment due to lack in popularity, the air can get rather thin and humid if the tomb’s crowded. Don’t force yourself to move at the pace of others. Explore at your own speed. The last thing you want is to become one of the Valley’s newest residents.

Now that the exposition is out of the way, let’s talk tombs.

The ones i visited were:
KV17 – Seti I (Separate Ticket)
KV9 – Ramses V & VI (Separate Ticket)
KV11 – Ramses III (General Admission)
KV2 – Tomb of Ramses IV (General Admission)
KV14 – Tausert & Setnakht (General Admission)
KV 8 – Merenptah (General Admission)

Noticed I skipped Tutankhamun? Yeah, about that…

KV62 – Tutankhamun

As famous as it is, I believe it’s the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb that made it legendary—not the tomb itself. It’s small and modest compared to its neighbors. He died young and unexpectedly, so his burial was rushed and far from grand. The artwork is limited to a single chamber and, while historic, lacks the intricacy found in tombs like Seti I or Ramses VI. So for the 500 EGP price tag? Not worth it in my opinion.

The famous treasures found in the tomb—including the gold mask, chariots, and shrines—are no longer there. They’re now housed in the Egyptian Museum or the Grand Egyptian Museum in Cairo, so other than an elaborately decorated room, the actual mummified body of Tutankhamun inside a climate-controlled glass case in the antechamber, that’s pretty much it.

It’s also very crowded due to its fame, which can turn the whole experience into a claustrophobic mess. I’d rather spend that money on something with more historical and visual impact.

Like the Tomb of Seti I.

KV17 – Seti I

Remember how i said 500 EGP is ridiculous? Well to enter the Tomb of Seti I, it is a whopping 1800 EGP. Now hold your horses and un-clutch your pearls, there’s a reason for the hefty price tag.

The Tomb of Seti I is considered the crown jewel of the Valley—arguably onde of the most elaborate and beautifully decorated tomb ever discovered in Egypt. But it’s also incredibly fragile, and limiting visitor numbers helps preserve its artwork. Restoration has been ongoing for decades, involving cutting-edge conservation techniques. Entry is limited to reduce environmental damage (from CO₂, humidity, and human contact), tickets can only be purchased in person, and only a small number of visitors are allowed each day—another reason to arrive early.

You get your money’s worth. The tomb is well-lit and ventilated. Glass barriers line the initial path down to protect the walls without blocking the view. The tomb extends over 137 meters into the bedrock and features more than 100 meters of painted corridors, carved walls, and chambers adorned with stunning reliefs. It’s the longest, deepest, and most intricately decorated tomb in the valley.

The artwork shows Seti I interacting with gods in richly detailed, symmetrical compositions—still vibrant after 3,000 years. The burial chamber originally held a massive alabaster sarcophagus (now in London’s Sir John Soane’s Museum) and is crowned with celestial ceiling art.

This tomb includes nearly every known funerary text of the period: the Book of the Dead, Amduat, Book of Gates, Book of the Heavenly Cow, and Litany of Ra. It reflects a deep spiritual dedication and desire to ensure Seti I’s safe passage into the afterlife—or just how determined he was to earn that golden ticket to heaven.

It’s less crowded due to the steep extra ticket price, which makes the experience even better. I had moments where it was just me and the silence of 3,000 years.

Tomb KV9 – Ramses V & VI

Originally built for Ramses V, then expanded by Ramses VI. While not as grand as Seti I’s, this tomb still spans 117 meters and is more straightforward in layout—one long corridor leading to a grand burial chamber.

The walls and ceilings are lavishly painted, not carved like Seti I’s, with large-scale illustrations with vivid astronomical ceilings and cosmic depictions. The artwork is bold and symbolic, designed to make an impression through color and celestial imagery, much of the color still remains impressively pigmented till this day, and restorers are hard at work to ensure it remains this way. At the time of my visit, i was fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of a team of restorers hard at work to preserve the tombs conditions, ensuring the longevity and integrity of the tomb for generations to come.

The central feature is the sky goddess Nut, arching over the chamber, painted in rich blues and golds. She is shown swallowing the sun at night and birthing it in the morning, symbolizing the sun’s eternal cycle and rebirth—core to ancient Egyptian cosmology. This visual story wraps across the ceiling, making it one of the most detailed and iconic depictions of the heavens in any royal tomb.

The burial chamber itself is impressive in its own right too, flour to ceiling inscriptions and painted text cover the walls with large, dramatic illustrations from the sacred texts of The Book of Gates & Book of Caverns, which detail the sun god Ra’s journey through the underworld, and serving as powerful spiritual maps, meant to guide the pharaoh’s soul to rebirth.

At just 180 EGP, this tomb is far more affordable and very accessible—it’s just one long (bumpy) slope down. If you’re short on time and want a showstopper tomb, this is your guy.

General Admission With a Perk

Next up are the General Admission tombs. For 600 EGP, you can visit up to three tombs with a single ticket. The ones I visited were KV14 (Tausert & Setnakht), KV11 (Ramses III), KV2 (Ramses IV), and KV8 (Merenptah).

Hold on—didn’t I say you could only visit three with one ticket?
Well, I got lucky.

At the entrance of every tomb, there’s usually a caretaker/security guy/tomb bouncer. They’ll ask to see your ticket so they can punch a hole in it, indicating how many tombs you’ve visited.

One of the first tombs I checked out was KV14, the tomb of Tausert & Setnakht. It’s located a little off the main route and requires a short 5-minute uphill hike to reach.

When I arrived, the gates were wide open… but no one was around. So, in typical horror film fashion, I walked right into the tomb. Halfway down the stairs, I got jump-scared by something white fluttering in the shadows—turns out it was Mr. Caretaker himself. I guess i found him.

Luckily, I was his first visitor of the day, and he let me off without punching my ticket—free tomb visit unlocked. At the mild expense of a potential heart attack, of course.

Quick PSA about these tomb ‘guardians’:
They might wave you over and offer to show you cool features or share stories about the tombs, since licensed tour guides aren’t allowed inside, and can get quite pushy about it. You’re free to listen or not, but just know they’ll likely expect a tip afterward if you do.

Tomb KV14 – Tausert & Setnakht

This one’s unique because it was originally constructed for a queen—Tausert—who ruled as a pharaoh, and later usurped and expanded by Setnakht. Because of this odd pairing, the tomb has an irregular and extended layout. You’ll notice a shift in decorative style partway through.

It’s interesting from both an artistic and political perspective. The idea of a woman ruling as pharaoh wasn’t exactly popular, and Setnakht seems to have literally bulldozed over her legacy by claiming her tomb and slapping his name all over it. Classic dude move.

Here in this tomb you can see the interesting contrasts between dynasties, while the walls are adorned with vivid reliefs and painted scenes from key funerary texts like the Book of the Dead, Book of the Gates, and Amduat, Tausert’s sections reflect the 19th Dynasty artistic style—elegant, colorful, and detailed, and Setnakht’s additions are more restrained but still include rich symbolic scenes of the afterlife journey.

The 19th Dynasty was known to be riddled with political instability and succession disputes, and Setnakht came to power after a period of chaos, marking the beginning of the 20th Dynasty, it is believed that he seized the throne through force or political maneuvering, possibly after the collapse of Tausert’s regime, and there’s no record of him being related to Tausert or her husband, Seti II.

His usurpation of her tomb (KV14) is seen as a symbolic erasure of her legacy, possibly to legitimize his own rule by taking over royal burial grounds. So though not as elaborately decorated as KV17 or KV9, it’s spacious, historically significant, and you get a sense of how tombs evolved—or were retrofitted—based on who ended up in them.

Tomb KV11 – Ramses III

Following Setnakht, Tomb KV11 belonged to his son, Ramses III. If there is one must see in your general admission ticket, it’s this one.

Ramesses III was one of the most powerful pharaohs of the 20th Dynasty and was often considered the last great ruler of the New Kingdom. He managed to delay Egypt’s decline through military might and strong imagery even though the foundations of the empire were already eroding beneath him.

Ramesses III’s reign was marked by invasion, famine, economic collapse, and labor unrest. It is alleged that toward the end of his reign, assassination was the cause of his death. Known as the Harem Conspiracy, Queen Tiye (not to be confused with the Great Royal Wife of the Egyptian pharaoh Amenhotep III), one of his secondary wives, tried to install her son Pentawer as pharaoh, and the plot involved high officials, priests, and even members of the royal harem.

While the plan ultimately failed, Ramesses III was likely injured or murdered during this plot as CT scans of his mummy show a deep cut to the throat. Talk about some cut throat royal drama.

Even so, his tomb is one of the more resplendent, and elaborately decorated tombs in the Valley of the Kings. This reflects his desire to match or outdo earlier pharaohs, especially in the tradition of monumental burial. I would even say it has similarities to the tomb of Seti I. The tomb features nearly every major funerary text necessary to ensure safe passage for the king into the Egyptian afterlife, and also includes images of Ramesses III when he defended Egypt against the Sea Peoples (people from the Mediterranean) and maintained the empire during turbulent times – some of the most famous land and naval campaign from his reign are depicted in the Medinet Habu temple, a temple he heavily invested in constructing.

The last chamber, two pillared halls leading to the burial chamber (which is closed off to the public), were partially blockaded at the time of my visit as they were undergoing conservation by a team of German egyptologists, but i would love to see the tomb again should i ever go back again.

Tomb KV2 – Ramses IV

The tomb of Rameses IV is the closest to the entrance (of those open at the moment), and naturally this makes it one of the most popular.

Ramesses IV came to the throne after the assassination of his father, Ramesses III, he tried to present himself as a strong ruler in the tradition of his predecessors, especially Ramesses II and III, but his efforts were mostly symbolic. Egypt during his reign was still suffering the aftershocks of the Sea Peoples invasions and economic collapse and the power of the priesthood of Amun was rising dramatically, gradually eclipsing that of the pharaoh.

His reign only lasted a mere 6-7 years, cause of death unknown.

The tomb is a great introduction to the Valley of the Kings, built as a long corridor that culminates in the impressive burial chamber, relatively short and straightforward in layout, especially compared to the winding tombs of his predecessors.

While the art and inscriptions at the start of the tomb have faded, it’s better preserved as you walk down towards the burial chamber. Here you’ll find his red granite sarcophagus, although damaged and without the lid, and surprisingly (and thankfully) not in France or UK.

At this point, i was a little stuck, my research only went as far as reading the history and looking for the tombs i wanted to visit, but with one more tomb visit still available to use from my general admission ticket, and 7 available options to choose from, a decision had to be made, one i left to a random tour guide waiting outside one of the tombs.

Tomb KV8 – Merenptah

Tomb KV8 of Merenptah isn’t one of the best in the Valley of the Kings, but it is one of the quietest in the first section of the valley, and is still worth visiting. Sadly, a lot of the art has deteriorated, but there are interesting sections of hieroglyphs and paintings still to see.

Merenptah was the 13th son of Ramesses II and became the fourth pharaoh of the 19th Dynasty. He ruled for roughly a decade, ascending to the throne late in life, around his 60s or 70s, due to his father’s unusually long reign. By then he had plenty of experience by the time he became pharaoh as he had previously been overseer of the army, Crown Prince and then Prince Regent for the last 12 years of Rameses II’s life.

After the victories of his father, Merenptah faced a series of challenges and revolts on the frontiers of Egypt, which he successfully repelled. He was the last stable ruler in the 19th dynasty as he was followed by three pharaohs (his son Seti II, grandson Siptah and daughter in law Tausert) who saw short reigns and disruption.

The tomb is huge and has a long corridor which leads down to two chambers. The first chamber has the lid of a sarcophagus, which has a mirror below it to show a carving of the goddess Nut.

Then there’s another corridor that finishes at the burial chamber, which still has the huge base of the sarcophagus in it and an impressive lid to the side. The burial chamber is huge and has a cathedral like feel to it, however a lot of the artwork on the walls has deteriorated, but remains accessible and contains elements typical of New Kingdom royal tombs

While the reliefs are softer and the colors more subdued, the tomb is still deep and dramatic. If you’re into moody, atmospheric ruins, this one has a bit of a “forgotten grandeur” vibe that’s oddly beautiful.

Let There Be Light

By the time I emerged back into the sunlight, I felt like I’d just completed a gauntlet. These tombs may not involve sand traps and rolling boulders, but they’ll absolutely test your endurance. Between the stairs, the stale air, and the emotional weight of being surrounded by millennia-old artwork meant to guide souls through the afterlife… it’s a lot.

Would I do it again? Absolutely. Would I wear better shoes next time? Also yes.

If Karnak is where the gods walked the Earth, then the Valley of the Kings is where the kings tried to join them in the stars. But i was nowhere near done with the Land of the Dead yet.

Next stop: Hatshepsut’s mortuary temple, Médinet Habou, and The Colossi of Memnon.

Spiritual Heart of The Ancients

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Two Thebes?

I’ve always known Luxor existed, but for the longest time, I also thought Thebes was somewhere else in Egypt—which, to be fair, is pretty confusing considering there’s also a Thebes in Greece.

To put it simply: modern-day Thebes still exists in Greece, and Luxor is actually the modern name for the ancient Egyptian city of Thebes. This Thebes (not the Greek one) was a major capital and religious center during the Middle and New Kingdom periods.

Thebes was known to the ancient Egyptians as Waset, meaning “city of the scepter”. The ruins of that once-glorious city are now nestled within the modern city of Luxor. It’s kind of like how there’s a Richmond in both the US and the UK, a Grenada in the Caribbean and a Granada in Spain. Austria and Australia. Potato, potahto. Ye get it.

Modern Luxor, like many tourist hotspots in Egypt, seems to have adopted a new religion: tourism. And by tourism, I mean a sacred devotion to hassling visitors and chasing that sweet, sweet foreign currency. Why, you ask? Oh, it’s a whole thing—and I’ll cover it in detail in a separate post on my Egypt Cheat Sheet (coming soon!). So stay tuned, because I know you’re here to validate all those “horror stories.”

But all jokes aside, Luxor—aka ancient Thebes—is one of the richest historical sites in the world. It was the capital of Upper Egypt during the New Kingdom, a time when the empire was at its peak. This city wasn’t just a political powerhouse—it was the spiritual heart of ancient Egypt. Over its 850-year run as a capital (the third-longest in Egyptian history, by the way), it attracted wealth, power, and monumental architecture. For context: Memphis (again, not the one in Tennessee) comes in second, and Alexandria takes the crown with around 970 years.

And Luxor didn’t just exist – it was an architectural mic drop, a living, breathing expression of cosmic order and divine authority carved into stone.

East VS West

To really understand Luxor, you’ve got to get the lay of the land. The East Bank vs. West Bank of the Nile wasn’t just about geography—it was a spiritual and symbolic divide baked into the city’s very soul.

In ancient Egyptian belief, the Nile split more than just real estate. The East Bank, where the sun rises, symbolized life and rebirth. It housed grand temples like Karnak and Luxor, dedicated to the gods of the living. Meanwhile, the West Bank, where the sun sets, represented death and the afterlife. This is where you’ll find the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and epic mortuary temples like Queen Hatshepsut’s, carved straight into the cliffs.

To summarize:

East Bank = Staying alive.
West Bank = Another one bites the dust.

Now that the history download is out of the way, let’s talk East Bank.

Ancient Thebes’ vibrant, living heart. This was where power, worship, and daily life pulsed with energy. Associated with the rising sun, the East Bank symbolized life, creation, and renewal, this is why temples dedicated to the gods of the living world were built here. It was the stage for public worship, royal propaganda, and rituals that reinforced divine kingship.

Patchwork Quilt of Power

The Karnak Temple wasn’t just important—it’s legendary. Think of it as the Vatican, Versailles, *insert a national monument you know of here* all rolled into one, but in ancient Egyptian terms. Built over 2,000 years by more than 30 pharaohs, Karnak is the largest religious complex ever built in ancient Egypt. The Hypostyle Hall alone has 134 gigantic columns—some over 20 meters tall—that will make your neck hurt from looking up. Only pharaohs and priests were allowed into its innermost sanctuaries. This was VIP holy ground.

One of the coolest things about Karnak is how every pharaoh left their mark—kind of like a divine group project. My personal favorite? Pharoah Hatshepsut. Her contributions to Karnak were bold, symbolic, and architecturally impressive—just like her reign. She wasn’t just adding her name to old stones; she was rewriting the narrative of divine kingship and legacy as one of the few female pharaohs in Egyptian history. Ruling as king, not queen—she is often depicted in male regalia, including the pharaoh’s beard. Hatshepsut used Karnak to cement her role as a divine monarch, not just a regent or placeholder, almost to say: “I was chosen by the gods; look at what I built.” Dang, now that’s a woman.

Unfortunately, her stepson/nephew Thutmose III wasn’t a fan. He went full on petty and tried to erase her from history by walling up her obelisks and defacing her images. The irony? His vandalism actually preserved some of her monuments for us today. Ha. Joke’s on you, Thutmose.

Even after Egypt’s golden age, Karnak kept evolving. Later rulers added Greek, Roman, and even Nubian touches. It’s an architectural patchwork quilt of power.

Set aside at least 3–4 hours. Karnak is massive and gets busy fast. Get there at opening (yes, 6 am, we know the drill by now), and you might get the place nearly to yourself. I did, and it felt almost sacred—like I should’ve purified myself before entering. Walking through the Great Hypostyle Hall alone? Pure goosebumps.

Walk Like an Egyptian (Priest)

Leading out the back of Karnak toward Luxor Temple is the legendary Avenue of the Sphinxes. Spanning nearly 3 kilometers and flanked by over a thousand sphinx statues, it connected the two temples and formed the backbone of ancient Thebes’ religious landscape.

During the annual Opet Festival, priests would carry a statue of Amun-Ra along this sacred route, symbolizing the union of god and king and renewing divine power.

After decades of excavation and restoration, the avenue was dramatically reopened in 2021. You can now walk the same path once reserved for gods and kings.

Make sure you have tickets for both Karnak and Luxor Temple before attempting to exit/enter along the avenue, or you’ll be turned away.

Divine Power Complex

Luxor Temple is a beautiful blend of grandeur and sacred symbolism. It was built primarily by Amenhotep III and Ramses II, but it’s not dedicated to a specific god—instead, it honors the Royal Ka, or the divine essence of the pharaoh. With its soaring columns, colossal seated statues, and once-matching obelisks (one now stands in Paris smack in the middle of Place de la Concorde), the temple radiates a unique blend of grandeur and sacred symbolism.

This temple played a key role in the Opet Festival, where it reinforced the pharaoh’s legitimacy. It even features a birth chamber that illustrates the pharaoh’s divine conception. Talk about self-branding.

Architecturally, it’s classic New Kingdom style: towering pylons, open courtyards, and intricate reliefs. But over time, layers of history piled on—Greek, Roman, Christian, and Islamic elements all found a home here. Alexander the Great built a shrine inside. The Romans turned part of it into a military camp. A 13th-century mosque still operates within the temple grounds today. That’s over 3,000 years of spiritual real estate, still active.

The Luxor Temple is open until 10 pm, and visiting in the evening offers a noticeably different atmosphere. Soft lighting highlights the architectural details, and some sections are illuminated in a way that mimics candlelight, creating a quiet, immersive setting.

There’s no strict time limit once you’re inside, so it’s worth planning your visit for the late afternoon. This way, you can experience the temple during daylight, catch the sunset, and see how the space transforms after dark.

Oh and there’s…

Also on the East Bank, is the Luxor Museum, and the Mummification Museum.

The Luxor Museum is small in size but rich in carefully curated treasures that bring the story of ancient Thebes vividly to life. It’s located along the Nile Corniche, between Luxor and Karnak Temples, and opens till 8pm. While most of the royal mummies are currently in the Royal Mummies Hall in the The National Museum of Egyptian Civilization in Cairo, the Luxor Museum still houses the royal mummy of Ramses I, it’s well-lit, climate-controlled, and uncluttered, with bilingual labels (Arabic and English) and clear signage which makes visiting accessible for everyone.

The Mummification Museum albeit smaller, but delves into great depth about the ancient Egyptian art of preserving the dead. Just north of Luxor Temple, this museum provides an intimate look at the rituals and techniques that ancient Egyptians employed to prepare both humans and animals for the afterlife. It stands as one of the few museums globally dedicated entirely to mummification. So if you’re interested in understanding the spiritual and practical aspects of ancient Egyptian funerary practices, this would be just the place for you, and it also opens till pretty late at night, 10pm.

You can tackle the East Bank in a day. Starting with Karnak, walk through the Avenue of Sphinxes to Luxor Temple, and capped it off with the museums.

Well, that was the plan… until my car broke down on the way from Aswan during my Edfu, Kom Ombo, Esna Temple tour. So I saw Karnak at night instead—via the famous Sound and Light Show. Which, honestly, was incredibly underwhelming. I ended up going back the next morning at 6 a.m. to redeem the experience.

And redeemed it was.

More on the show experience and tips in the Egypt Cheat Sheet, so hang tight and keep an eye out!

Hello Darkness

By the end of the day, I was absolutely wrecked—body aching, legs threatening to file a formal complaint, and brain overloaded with 3,000 years of historical grandeur. But spiritually? Fulfilled. Like, glowing-core-memory-unlocked fulfilled. I couldn’t sleep that night—not because of the heat or the questionable hotel mattress—but because my brain wouldn’t shut up imagining what it must’ve looked like back then. However, darkness beaconed, and it was another early start to the next day to redeem myself at Karnak, but most importantly, the Land of the Dead awaits at the West Bank.