Shenanigans Abroad

Tag: desert

  • Egypt – Abu Simbel

    A Testament of Devotion

    A Rocky Start

    My two week journey into the land of the Pharaohs began from Amman Queen Alia International Airport, and boy did we get off to an amazing start.

    Heavy fog led to a six-hour flight delay, followed by frustrating flight assistance from EgyptAir while trying to rebook my connecting flight from Cairo to Aswan—which, of course, was delayed too. By the time I finally reached my hotel, I was absolutely pooped.

    But I was not about to let all this get in the way of a trip I have literally been dreaming of since I first opened the golden tome of Egyptian History and Myths as a snotty-nosed brat. So, off to bed for a two-hour nap, and I was out of the hotel again at 4 am for a four-hour ride to the Abu Simbel Temples. Why so early? Well, for the same reason I always do—to get there at opening and avoid the crowds. And you bet there’ll be crowds the minute the gates open

    Getting to Abu Simbel

    While the four-hour road trip from Aswan to Abu Simbel is an option, you can also take a flight with EgyptAir, which runs every hour or so from Aswan International Airport to Abu Simbel Airport. The flight takes just 45 minutes, followed by a short taxi ride to the temples. If you prefer to stay closer, there are hotels and resorts nearby, allowing you to arrive the day before and wake up just in time for the temple’s opening. Staying overnight can be costly, but if you’re willing to splurge, it’s definitely an option. Otherwise, many hotels and agencies in Aswan offer bus tours—a cheaper but less flexible alternative.

    As usual, I found my driver through GYG, which has been a lifesaver for trip planning. And when I say planning, I mean the full-on Excel sheet treatment—timestamps, booking details, prices, and even the conversion rate at the time of purchase. Suffice to say, I like planning.

    Favoritism Much Mate?

    Four hours on the road and many tea breaks later, I found myself standing before one of the greatest displays of devotion (ahem favoritism ahem) in pharaonic history. Why? Because the Abu Simbel Temples—two massive rock-cut structures in southern Egypt, near the Sudanese border—were built by Pharaoh Ramses II in the 13th century BCE. He dedicated them to himself, the gods, and his Great Royal Wife and queen, Nefertari.

    Despite having around 200 wives and consorts—and well over 100 children—Ramses II built and dedicated a temple to Nefertari alone, honoring her with titles during her lifetime such as Nefertari Meritmut (Beautiful Companion, Beloved of Mut) and The One for Whom the Sun Shines and so on. The Small Temple of Hathor and Nefertari can be found right next to The Great Temple of Ramses II, both located within the Abu Simbel historical site.

    I went without a guide this time but was unintentionally ‘guided’ by a very enthusiastic local Egyptologist—alongside a lovely older couple who more or less adopted me as their unofficial photographer for the day. The history and stories were captivating, but what fascinated me most during his guide was the incredible story behind the relocation of these temples.

    The Great Relocation and Solar Alignment

    Imagine watching one of Egypt’s most iconic temples disappear beneath the waters of a massive lake. That was nearly the fate of the Abu Simbel Temples, built by Ramses II over 3,000 years ago. When the Aswan High Dam was constructed in the 1960s, the rising waters of Lake Nasser threatened to submerge these ancient masterpieces forever. In a race against time, UNESCO launched an ambitious project to relocate the temples piece by piece, marking this project as one of the greatest engineering feats in history.

    Between 1964 and 1968, a team of experts carefully cut the temples into over 1,000 massive blocks, each weighing up to 30 tons. These pieces were then moved 65 meters higher and 200 meters back to a new, specially built artificial hill—preserving not just the temples, but also their famous solar alignment phenomenon. The entire project cost around $40 million, but it saved one of Egypt’s most treasured sites from vanishing beneath the water. At the site, you can even occasionally spot small metal studs in the ground or on the walls with a number on it, indicators identifying each piece of the massive 1000 piece megalith puzzle.

    What makes Abu Simbel truly unique is its solar alignment, a stunning event that happens twice a year—on February 22 and October 22. On these mornings, the rising sun shines directly into the Great Temple of Ramses II, illuminating the statues of Amun-Ra, Ra-Horakhty, and Ramses II in the inner sanctuary, while Ptah—the god of the underworld—remains in shadow, symbolizing his eternal darkness.

    Even after the temple’s relocation, engineers preserved this alignment, though the effect now occurs one day later than originally intended. If you plan to witness this phenomenon, my “guide” (or, as I called him, monsieur marketing —he is quite persuasive) advised arriving by 4 AM to secure a good viewing spot for alignment that starts around 5:30–6:00 AM. Tickets for this event have a different price, which you can find and book in advance on the official Egypt Monuments website.

    The Temples

    Guides are only allowed up to the temple entrances, so once inside, you’re left to explore on your own. This is where my photography skills kicked in for the lovely elderly couple as they couldn’t bring in their guide. Guides usually point out key areas via photos or photobooks (which they’ll try to sell you afterward), but inside, you’re free to soak in the grandeur at your own pace.

    It is hard to describe the sense of awe or almost reverence that comes upon you the minute you cross the entrance of these temples. Stepping into the Great Temple of Ramses II, you are dwarfed by the four colossal statues of the pharaoh, their gaze unwavering through time. Inside, towering Osirid statues line the vast hall, while the walls pulse with ancient battle scenes, including Ramses’ triumph at Kadesh. Deeper still, the inner sanctuary houses four seated figures—Amun-Ra, Ra-Horakhty, Ramses II, and Ptah. On the days of solar alignment, this is where the sunlight pierces the chamber, illuminating all but Ptah, the god of darkness.

    At the Temple of Nefertari, grace replaces grandeur. The entrance, flanked by six statues of Ramses and his queen, is rare in its equal tribute. Inside, Hathor-headed pillars watch over delicate carvings of Nefertari offering to the gods, her form radiating divine favor. Unlike the Great Temple’s power, this space hums with devotion—both to the gods and to the queen who was loved enough to be immortalized in stone.

    It very hard not to be impressed when you’re physically standing there, just thinking to yourself, “How the heck did they do this back in the day?”.

    The Farewell Gift

    After about two hours of exploring, my unofficial ‘guide’ surprised me with a tip—perhaps for being a good sport and taking great photos of his clients, which I found absolutely hilarious. In return, I tipped him back, considering I had unknowingly been guided by him for most of the visit.

    As a gesture of goodwill, the ‘tip’ was a 1 Egyptian Pound banknote, featuring an image of Abu Simbel Temple on one side. Laughing, he even joked that it was more of a bribe—so the old couple and I would stop bombarding him with questions. Hilarious.

    With that, I left my unexpected tour buddies behind and set off back to Aswan, where the mystical Philae Temple of Isis awaited.

  • Jordan – Umm Qais & Jerash

    Roads that led to Rome

    Is That It?

    It’s one thing to read about the mighty Roman Empire, but it’s another to stand in one of their ancient cities—nearly 4,000 km away from modern-day Rome—and realize just how far they came.

    A little research truly goes a long way. Good ole me would have been content with just exploring Petra and sand cruising through Wadi Rum. But then I wondered—was there more that Jordan had to offer? A quick Google search revealed that Jordan is so much more than just sands and rosy rock-carved buildings.

    During the Hellenistic and Roman periods, Amman was known as Philadelphia, named after Ptolemy II Philadelphus. (Ha, and now, a cream cheese manufacturer has taken up the same name. )

    After the Roman annexation of the Nabataean Kingdom in 106 AD, the province of Arabia Petraea was established, incorporating cities like Petra, Gerasa (Jerash), Gadara (Umm Qais), and Philadelphia (Amman). These cities flourished under Roman rule, leaving behind a rich architectural legacy—grand theaters, temples, and colonnaded streets. Walking through them today makes you wonder what life must have been like in their golden age.

    Now, I’m not usually a “hire a tour” kind of person, but with only one day left in Jordan and two major sites on my list, I figured it was the best option. Luckily, I found a private tour with a driver through GetYourGuide that perfectly fit my itinerary.

    You can drive to these locations yourself. The mountainous roads to Umm Qais can get a little spicy, but overall, the routes are straightforward and safe. Tour groups and buses are also an option. But there’s an option for everyone and budget.

    Umm Qais—A Hilltop Roman Gem

    As with most trips in Jordan, the day started early. After a two-hour car ride, with tea breaks included, I arrived at Umm Qais, where the ancient ruins of Gadara sit atop the mountainous northwest of the country.

    Thanks to its hilltop location, Umm Qais is the perfect place to soak in breathtaking views of the Jordan Valley, including the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights, and parts of Israel and Syria. In its prime, Gadara was a major center of culture, home to classical poets and philosophers. Today, though in ruins, it still boasts an impressive colonnaded street, a vaulted terrace, and two large Roman-style amphitheaters. The site is criminally underrated. It’s a stunning testament to Rome’s reach, even in the farthest corners of its dominion.

    The site includes a temple with shops below it, a nymphaeum, an amphitheater, and a Roman road that once linked it to the rest of the empire. Other highlights include the Mausoleum, Basilica Terrace, and the Thermae. Visiting Umm Qais is covered by the Jordan Pass, but you can also purchase entry tickets for 5 JD per person. Local guides can be found near the ticketing booth if you’re up for some haggling.

    My local guide, included in my tour, provided fascinating insights into the city’s history and its strategic importance in both ancient and modern times. That said, the site is well-mapped with clear signage, so exploring independently is entirely doable. I’d recommend setting aside at least two hours to take it all in.

    Jerash—The “Pompeii of the East”

    From Umm Qais, you can opt to visit Ajloun Castle, a 12th-century Ayyubid fortress built to defend against Crusader attacks. It’s just 40 minutes away and is also covered by the Jordan Pass. However, I had my sights set on another Roman marvel—Jerash.

    After an hour-long tour of Umm Qais and some free time to explore, I reunited with my driver and headed straight to Jerash. Just an hour’s drive from Umm Qais, Jerash is one of Jordan’s most significant historical sites, offering a remarkably well-preserved look at Roman civilization outside of Italy.

    Often called the “Pompeii of the East,” Jerash flourished under Roman rule in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. Even today, archaeologists continue to uncover new discoveries, keeping this site an ever-evolving historical wonder.

    Before even entering the ticketed area, I was greeted by Hadrian’s Arch, a massive triumphal arch built in 129 AD to commemorate Emperor Hadrian’s visit to the city. Just beyond it lies the Hippodrome, a vast sports arena that once held 15,000 spectators, where chariot races and gladiator battles entertained the crowds. I later learned that the Hippodrome still hosts re-enactments of Roman chariot races and military drills—an experience that I, unfortunately, missed. I guess that just gives me another reason to come back.

    Jerash is vast, and with little signage, it can feel overwhelming. Hiring a guide for around 20 JD is well worth it. Guides are available at the ticket checkpoint and offer tours in various languages, including English, French, German, Mandarin, and Japanese.

    I had some fun watching them guess which language I preferred before finally settling on good ole English, because my French and Mandarin would have embarrassed me beyond repair seeing that they spoke it more fluently than me. Shame on me, my cow, and family.

    Walking Through Time

    My fantastic guide, Anas—and you know he’s amazing if I remembered his name (I am notoriously bad at remembering names)—began the tour through the South Gate, the grand entrance to this remarkably preserved city. From there, we walked into the Oval Plaza, a vast, colonnaded open space that felt like the heart of ancient Jerash. The wide, stone-paved Cardo Maximus stretched ahead, its surface still bearing the grooves left by Roman chariots. We passed the Macellum, once a bustling marketplace, before arriving at the Nymphaeum—a beautifully adorned public fountain and my personal favorite site in Jerash.

    The tour continued uphill to the Temple of Artemis, dedicated to the city’s patron goddess. The towering Corinthian columns still stand as a testament to Roman engineering. From there, we explored the North Theater, the Church of SS Cosmas and Damian, and finally the South Theater, where, to my surprise, Jordanian bagpipers were playing. Yes, bagpipes in Jerash—it’s a thing.

    We concluded the tour at the Temple of Zeus, perched on a hill with breathtaking panoramic views of the ruins below. It was the perfect finale, showcasing Jerash’s blend of history, architecture, and stunning landscapes. As the sun dipped lower, I made my way back to the visitor center, then to my driver, and finally back to Amman.

    Farewell?

    Standing atop the Temple of Zeus, I took one last look at the ancient city below. I had just traced the footsteps of Roman citizens in a place that still feels alive with history.

    It’s surreal to find such a well-preserved Roman city in the heart of the Middle East—a place I never expected to hold such strong ties to the empire I admire. It’s a reminder that history is full of surprises, waiting to be uncovered.

    Now, with the dust of Jerash still clinging to my shoes, I turn my sights to my next destination: Egypt—another land of ancient wonders, where pharaohs and pyramids will tell stories of a different kind.

  • Jordan – Wadi Rum

    The Valley of the Moon

    Wadi Rum—often called the “Valley of the Moon”—is a vast, surreal expanse of towering sandstone mountains, sweeping red dunes, and weathered rock formations that seem almost otherworldly.

    Its dramatic, alien-like landscape has made it a popular filming location for major movies, including Lawrence of Arabia, Dune, and Disney’s Aladdin. With its striking scenery, it’s easy to see why filmmakers continue to be drawn to this timeless wilderness.

    Carved by wind and time, jagged cliffs and deep canyons contrast against the endless desert floor, creating a scene that feels more like Mars than Earth. The shifting hues of the sand and rock—from deep reds to golden yellows—change with the light, especially at sunrise and sunset, when the desert glows in fiery tones. Scattered petroglyphs and ancient inscriptions hint at the people who once traversed this land, adding to its mystique. A UNESCO-protected site, Wadi Rum is an untouched wilderness where time seems to stand still. But Wadi Rum isn’t just a destination—it’s an experience.

    The Journey Here

    No matter where you’re coming from—Amman, Petra, or Aqaba—the journey to Wadi Rum is fairly straightforward.

    1. By Car
      The drive from Amman takes around 4 hours via the Desert Highway (Highway 15), with well-marked signs leading to Wadi Rum Village. Be mindful of speed bumps, occasional checkpoints, and long stretches without gas stations.
      It takes 1.5–2 hours via the King’s Highway and Desert Highway from Petra (Wadi Musa) to Wadi Rum, and the shortest drive is from Aqaba, it is the closest major city, and the drive takes 1 hour via Desert Highway.
    2. By Bus
      There are no direct buses from Amman to Wadi Rum, but you can take a JETT Bus to Aqaba (4 hours) and then a taxi or local bus to Wadi Rum.
      A daily tourist minibus departs Petra around at 6:00–6:30 AM , the ride takes about 2 hours and costs around 10 JOD ($14), and public minibuses run irregularly from Aqaba to Wadi Rum but are less reliable than taxis.
    3. By Taxi/Private Transfer
      From Amman, no cab will take you to Wadi Rum, but many tour operators and hotels offer private transfers, which can be more convenient, especially for groups. Expect to pay around 100–150 JOD ($140–210) for a one-way trip. Should you be staying at a camp in Wadi Rum, some will also offer an airport transfer if you’re going straight from the airport to the camp. (confirm with your camp in advance)
      A taxi or private car hire from Petra to Wadi Rum costs 35–50 JOD ($50–70), and you can usually find cabs right outside the Petra Museum, and a taxi from Aqaba costs 20–30 JOD ($28–42), depending on your bargaining skills.

    Arriving at Wadi Rum

    After an eventful morning at Petra, I headed to Wadi Rum by cab, arriving at the Wadi Rum Visitor Center after a 2-hour drive. Upon arrival, all visitors must check in and pay an entry fee (or present your Jordan Pass for free entry).

    If you’ve booked a desert camp, your hosts will typically arrange a 4×4 pickup from Wadi Rum Village. If you haven’t booked in advance, you can arrange a tour here, including 4×4 Jeep tours, camel treks, hiking excursions, and overnight stays (subject to availability).

    Although these options are available at the Visitor Center, I highly recommend booking your tours in advance. As with any popular tourist destination, scams are prevalent in the area, so proceed with caution if you choose to book on-site.

    Right outside the visitor center, you’ll find a stunning view of the Seven Pillars of Wisdom, a massive rock formation named after T.E. Lawrence’s famous book—a great photo spot before heading deeper into the desert.

    The Stay

    A trip to Wadi Rum wouldn’t be complete without spending a night in the desert—whether in a traditional Bedouin camp, a luxury bubble tent, or even camping under the stars.

    I stayed at Hasan Zawaideh Camp, a mid-range option, booking one of their Martian tents for the night. The hospitality was great, and the camp had all the basics—decent Wi-Fi, air-conditioned rooms, clean towels, and toiletries. You can also book your tours and activities directly with the camp, including jeep tours, stargazing, hiking, and climbing expeditions. I opted for their 6-hour jeep tour, and the entire package (1-night stay +full board + jeep tour) cost me 120 JOD, which was quite reasonable.

    A Wild Ride

    After a quick lunch, I was picked up by my guide—one of the local Bedouins—for my sunset desert tour.

    I wasn’t exactly convinced when I first hopped onto the back of the jeep—the bench opposite mine wasn’t even properly attached and was barely hanging on by a single hinge. As we sped through the desert, bench and I held on for dear life, feeling like a piñata flung around in the back of a moving jeep. At one point, my guide attempted to tie the bench down with a rope—which promptly came undone with a single bump. With each jolt, I watched the bench defy gravity like Elphaba in Wicked and wondered if I would be next.

    But as soon as we left the camps and entered the vast wilderness, all my worries faded.

    Cruising through the rosy sands, you’ll be brought to several spots like the Red Sand Dunes, Um Fruth Rock Bridge, Lawrence’s Spring, and Khazali Canyon where you can see some Nabatean, Thamudic and Islamic inscriptions covering the Jebel Khazali’s inner walls. Most tours will also include visiting sites that were used as the filming locations to movies like Dune and Aladdin,

    Bedouin guides don’t act as traditional tour guides—they know their way around Wadi Rum and drive you from spot to spot, but don’t expect detailed explanations. Most of them speak little English and will briefly point out sights before disappearing into one of the many Bedouin tents scattered around. I actually liked this—it gave me the freedom to explore at my own pace.

    How you experience Wadi Rum is up to you, you could hike the cliffs and climb the rocks for the best views, or stay in your jeep and snap photos, your guide will adapt the tour to your style.

    I think my guide got the impression that I was one of those adventurous types, and I don’t blame him—I do dress rather athletically by default. But for me, it’s more about comfort and practicality than actual athleticism—the most exercise I get in daily life is probably doing sit-ups to get out of bed or sprinting after the last bus.

    He took me to all the high viewpoints, and each time he dropped me off with a knowing look, it felt less like a choice and more like a test of pride. So, rolling up my imaginary sleeves, I scrambled up dunes, cliffs, and rocks, sweating like a sinner in church—but the views were absolutely worth it.

    As my tour ended, we drove to the sunset spot. More and more jeeps converged on the rocky outcrop, and as the sun dipped below the horizon, the desert transformed into a warm, glowing masterpiece. The sky darkened, the moon emerged, and it was time to head back for dinner.

    A Bedouin Feast

    Dining in Wadi Rum isn’t just about the food—it’s an experience that immerses you in Bedouin hospitality, culture, and the magic of the desert night sky. The highlight of most camp dinners is Zarb, a traditional Bedouin barbecue cooked underground. Meat (usually lamb or chicken), along with vegetables and rice, is placed in a metal rack inside a deep, sand-covered pit and slow-cooked for hours, resulting in tender, smoky, and flavorful dishes. Food is served communally and enjoyed around the campfire.

    After dinner, most camps serve sweet Bedouin tea, infused with sage or cardamom. It’s the perfect way to relax by the fire, share stories with fellow travelers, and admire Wadi Rum’s spectacular night sky, free from light pollution.

    With a full belly and a warm cup of tea, I retreated to my bubble tent, gazing at a sky bursting with stars—the perfect way to end the night.

    A Bittersweet Goodbye

    Waking up to the sight of the desert at sunrise is truly a one-of-a-kind experience. But all good things must come to an end. Packed and ready, I was driven back to the Wadi Rum Visitor Center after check out, meeting my GYG driver for the return to Amman—all the while watching the desert fade in the distance, feeling like I had left a piece of myself in the sands.

    Back at my hotel, it was time to recharge and refresh for a new adventure the next day—swapping the desert sands for the ancient ruins of Jerash and Umm Qais.