Shenanigans Abroad

Tag: history

  • Egypt – Luxor, East Bank

    Spiritual Heart of The Ancients

    Two Thebes?

    I’ve always known Luxor existed, but for the longest time, I also thought Thebes was somewhere else in Egypt—which, to be fair, is pretty confusing considering there’s also a Thebes in Greece.

    To put it simply: modern-day Thebes still exists in Greece, and Luxor is actually the modern name for the ancient Egyptian city of Thebes. This Thebes (not the Greek one) was a major capital and religious center during the Middle and New Kingdom periods.

    Thebes was known to the ancient Egyptians as Waset, meaning “city of the scepter”. The ruins of that once-glorious city are now nestled within the modern city of Luxor. It’s kind of like how there’s a Richmond in both the US and the UK, a Grenada in the Caribbean and a Granada in Spain. Austria and Australia. Potato, potahto. Ye get it.

    Modern Luxor, like many tourist hotspots in Egypt, seems to have adopted a new religion: tourism. And by tourism, I mean a sacred devotion to hassling visitors and chasing that sweet, sweet foreign currency. Why, you ask? Oh, it’s a whole thing—and I’ll cover it in detail in a separate post on my Egypt Cheat Sheet (coming soon!). So stay tuned, because I know you’re here to validate all those “horror stories.”

    But all jokes aside, Luxor—aka ancient Thebes—is one of the richest historical sites in the world. It was the capital of Upper Egypt during the New Kingdom, a time when the empire was at its peak. This city wasn’t just a political powerhouse—it was the spiritual heart of ancient Egypt. Over its 850-year run as a capital (the third-longest in Egyptian history, by the way), it attracted wealth, power, and monumental architecture. For context: Memphis (again, not the one in Tennessee) comes in second, and Alexandria takes the crown with around 970 years.

    And Luxor didn’t just exist – it was an architectural mic drop, a living, breathing expression of cosmic order and divine authority carved into stone.

    East VS West

    To really understand Luxor, you’ve got to get the lay of the land. The East Bank vs. West Bank of the Nile wasn’t just about geography—it was a spiritual and symbolic divide baked into the city’s very soul.

    In ancient Egyptian belief, the Nile split more than just real estate. The East Bank, where the sun rises, symbolized life and rebirth. It housed grand temples like Karnak and Luxor, dedicated to the gods of the living. Meanwhile, the West Bank, where the sun sets, represented death and the afterlife. This is where you’ll find the Valley of the Kings, the Valley of the Queens, and epic mortuary temples like Queen Hatshepsut’s, carved straight into the cliffs.

    To summarize:

    East Bank = Staying alive.
    West Bank = Another one bites the dust.

    Now that the history download is out of the way, let’s talk East Bank.

    Ancient Thebes’ vibrant, living heart. This was where power, worship, and daily life pulsed with energy. Associated with the rising sun, the East Bank symbolized life, creation, and renewal, this is why temples dedicated to the gods of the living world were built here. It was the stage for public worship, royal propaganda, and rituals that reinforced divine kingship.

    Patchwork Quilt of Power

    The Karnak Temple wasn’t just important—it’s legendary. Think of it as the Vatican, Versailles, *insert a national monument you know of here* all rolled into one, but in ancient Egyptian terms. Built over 2,000 years by more than 30 pharaohs, Karnak is the largest religious complex ever built in ancient Egypt. The Hypostyle Hall alone has 134 gigantic columns—some over 20 meters tall—that will make your neck hurt from looking up. Only pharaohs and priests were allowed into its innermost sanctuaries. This was VIP holy ground.

    One of the coolest things about Karnak is how every pharaoh left their mark—kind of like a divine group project. My personal favorite? Pharoah Hatshepsut. Her contributions to Karnak were bold, symbolic, and architecturally impressive—just like her reign. She wasn’t just adding her name to old stones; she was rewriting the narrative of divine kingship and legacy as one of the few female pharaohs in Egyptian history. Ruling as king, not queen—she is often depicted in male regalia, including the pharaoh’s beard. Hatshepsut used Karnak to cement her role as a divine monarch, not just a regent or placeholder, almost to say: “I was chosen by the gods; look at what I built.” Dang, now that’s a woman.

    Unfortunately, her stepson/nephew Thutmose III wasn’t a fan. He went full on petty and tried to erase her from history by walling up her obelisks and defacing her images. The irony? His vandalism actually preserved some of her monuments for us today. Ha. Joke’s on you, Thutmose.

    Even after Egypt’s golden age, Karnak kept evolving. Later rulers added Greek, Roman, and even Nubian touches. It’s an architectural patchwork quilt of power.

    Set aside at least 3–4 hours. Karnak is massive and gets busy fast. Get there at opening (yes, 6 am, we know the drill by now), and you might get the place nearly to yourself. I did, and it felt almost sacred—like I should’ve purified myself before entering. Walking through the Great Hypostyle Hall alone? Pure goosebumps.

    Walk Like an Egyptian (Priest)

    Leading out the back of Karnak toward Luxor Temple is the legendary Avenue of the Sphinxes. Spanning nearly 3 kilometers and flanked by over a thousand sphinx statues, it connected the two temples and formed the backbone of ancient Thebes’ religious landscape.

    During the annual Opet Festival, priests would carry a statue of Amun-Ra along this sacred route, symbolizing the union of god and king and renewing divine power.

    After decades of excavation and restoration, the avenue was dramatically reopened in 2021. You can now walk the same path once reserved for gods and kings.

    Make sure you have tickets for both Karnak and Luxor Temple before attempting to exit/enter along the avenue, or you’ll be turned away.

    Divine Power Complex

    Luxor Temple is a beautiful blend of grandeur and sacred symbolism. It was built primarily by Amenhotep III and Ramses II, but it’s not dedicated to a specific god—instead, it honors the Royal Ka, or the divine essence of the pharaoh. With its soaring columns, colossal seated statues, and once-matching obelisks (one now stands in Paris smack in the middle of Place de la Concorde), the temple radiates a unique blend of grandeur and sacred symbolism.

    This temple played a key role in the Opet Festival, where it reinforced the pharaoh’s legitimacy. It even features a birth chamber that illustrates the pharaoh’s divine conception. Talk about self-branding.

    Architecturally, it’s classic New Kingdom style: towering pylons, open courtyards, and intricate reliefs. But over time, layers of history piled on—Greek, Roman, Christian, and Islamic elements all found a home here. Alexander the Great built a shrine inside. The Romans turned part of it into a military camp. A 13th-century mosque still operates within the temple grounds today. That’s over 3,000 years of spiritual real estate, still active.

    The Luxor Temple is open until 10 pm, and visiting in the evening offers a noticeably different atmosphere. Soft lighting highlights the architectural details, and some sections are illuminated in a way that mimics candlelight, creating a quiet, immersive setting.

    There’s no strict time limit once you’re inside, so it’s worth planning your visit for the late afternoon. This way, you can experience the temple during daylight, catch the sunset, and see how the space transforms after dark.

    Oh and there’s…

    Also on the East Bank, is the Luxor Museum, and the Mummification Museum.

    The Luxor Museum is small in size but rich in carefully curated treasures that bring the story of ancient Thebes vividly to life. It’s located along the Nile Corniche, between Luxor and Karnak Temples, and opens till 8pm. While most of the royal mummies are currently in the Royal Mummies Hall in the The National Museum of Egyptian Civilization in Cairo, the Luxor Museum still houses the royal mummy of Ramses I, it’s well-lit, climate-controlled, and uncluttered, with bilingual labels (Arabic and English) and clear signage which makes visiting accessible for everyone.

    The Mummification Museum albeit smaller, but delves into great depth about the ancient Egyptian art of preserving the dead. Just north of Luxor Temple, this museum provides an intimate look at the rituals and techniques that ancient Egyptians employed to prepare both humans and animals for the afterlife. It stands as one of the few museums globally dedicated entirely to mummification. So if you’re interested in understanding the spiritual and practical aspects of ancient Egyptian funerary practices, this would be just the place for you, and it also opens till pretty late at night, 10pm.

    You can tackle the East Bank in a day. Starting with Karnak, walk through the Avenue of Sphinxes to Luxor Temple, and capped it off with the museums.

    Well, that was the plan… until my car broke down on the way from Aswan during my Edfu, Kom Ombo, Esna Temple tour. So I saw Karnak at night instead—via the famous Sound and Light Show. Which, honestly, was incredibly underwhelming. I ended up going back the next morning at 6 a.m. to redeem the experience.

    And redeemed it was.

    More on the show experience and tips in the Egypt Cheat Sheet, so hang tight and keep an eye out!

    Hello Darkness

    By the end of the day, I was absolutely wrecked—body aching, legs threatening to file a formal complaint, and brain overloaded with 3,000 years of historical grandeur. But spiritually? Fulfilled. Like, glowing-core-memory-unlocked fulfilled. I couldn’t sleep that night—not because of the heat or the questionable hotel mattress—but because my brain wouldn’t shut up imagining what it must’ve looked like back then. However, darkness beaconed, and it was another early start to the next day to redeem myself at Karnak, but most importantly, the Land of the Dead awaits at the West Bank.

  • Jordan – Umm Qais & Jerash

    Roads that led to Rome

    Is That It?

    It’s one thing to read about the mighty Roman Empire, but it’s another to stand in one of their ancient cities—nearly 4,000 km away from modern-day Rome—and realize just how far they came.

    A little research truly goes a long way. Good ole me would have been content with just exploring Petra and sand cruising through Wadi Rum. But then I wondered—was there more that Jordan had to offer? A quick Google search revealed that Jordan is so much more than just sands and rosy rock-carved buildings.

    During the Hellenistic and Roman periods, Amman was known as Philadelphia, named after Ptolemy II Philadelphus. (Ha, and now, a cream cheese manufacturer has taken up the same name. )

    After the Roman annexation of the Nabataean Kingdom in 106 AD, the province of Arabia Petraea was established, incorporating cities like Petra, Gerasa (Jerash), Gadara (Umm Qais), and Philadelphia (Amman). These cities flourished under Roman rule, leaving behind a rich architectural legacy—grand theaters, temples, and colonnaded streets. Walking through them today makes you wonder what life must have been like in their golden age.

    Now, I’m not usually a “hire a tour” kind of person, but with only one day left in Jordan and two major sites on my list, I figured it was the best option. Luckily, I found a private tour with a driver through GetYourGuide that perfectly fit my itinerary.

    You can drive to these locations yourself. The mountainous roads to Umm Qais can get a little spicy, but overall, the routes are straightforward and safe. Tour groups and buses are also an option. But there’s an option for everyone and budget.

    Umm Qais—A Hilltop Roman Gem

    As with most trips in Jordan, the day started early. After a two-hour car ride, with tea breaks included, I arrived at Umm Qais, where the ancient ruins of Gadara sit atop the mountainous northwest of the country.

    Thanks to its hilltop location, Umm Qais is the perfect place to soak in breathtaking views of the Jordan Valley, including the Sea of Galilee, the Golan Heights, and parts of Israel and Syria. In its prime, Gadara was a major center of culture, home to classical poets and philosophers. Today, though in ruins, it still boasts an impressive colonnaded street, a vaulted terrace, and two large Roman-style amphitheaters. The site is criminally underrated. It’s a stunning testament to Rome’s reach, even in the farthest corners of its dominion.

    The site includes a temple with shops below it, a nymphaeum, an amphitheater, and a Roman road that once linked it to the rest of the empire. Other highlights include the Mausoleum, Basilica Terrace, and the Thermae. Visiting Umm Qais is covered by the Jordan Pass, but you can also purchase entry tickets for 5 JD per person. Local guides can be found near the ticketing booth if you’re up for some haggling.

    My local guide, included in my tour, provided fascinating insights into the city’s history and its strategic importance in both ancient and modern times. That said, the site is well-mapped with clear signage, so exploring independently is entirely doable. I’d recommend setting aside at least two hours to take it all in.

    Jerash—The “Pompeii of the East”

    From Umm Qais, you can opt to visit Ajloun Castle, a 12th-century Ayyubid fortress built to defend against Crusader attacks. It’s just 40 minutes away and is also covered by the Jordan Pass. However, I had my sights set on another Roman marvel—Jerash.

    After an hour-long tour of Umm Qais and some free time to explore, I reunited with my driver and headed straight to Jerash. Just an hour’s drive from Umm Qais, Jerash is one of Jordan’s most significant historical sites, offering a remarkably well-preserved look at Roman civilization outside of Italy.

    Often called the “Pompeii of the East,” Jerash flourished under Roman rule in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. Even today, archaeologists continue to uncover new discoveries, keeping this site an ever-evolving historical wonder.

    Before even entering the ticketed area, I was greeted by Hadrian’s Arch, a massive triumphal arch built in 129 AD to commemorate Emperor Hadrian’s visit to the city. Just beyond it lies the Hippodrome, a vast sports arena that once held 15,000 spectators, where chariot races and gladiator battles entertained the crowds. I later learned that the Hippodrome still hosts re-enactments of Roman chariot races and military drills—an experience that I, unfortunately, missed. I guess that just gives me another reason to come back.

    Jerash is vast, and with little signage, it can feel overwhelming. Hiring a guide for around 20 JD is well worth it. Guides are available at the ticket checkpoint and offer tours in various languages, including English, French, German, Mandarin, and Japanese.

    I had some fun watching them guess which language I preferred before finally settling on good ole English, because my French and Mandarin would have embarrassed me beyond repair seeing that they spoke it more fluently than me. Shame on me, my cow, and family.

    Walking Through Time

    My fantastic guide, Anas—and you know he’s amazing if I remembered his name (I am notoriously bad at remembering names)—began the tour through the South Gate, the grand entrance to this remarkably preserved city. From there, we walked into the Oval Plaza, a vast, colonnaded open space that felt like the heart of ancient Jerash. The wide, stone-paved Cardo Maximus stretched ahead, its surface still bearing the grooves left by Roman chariots. We passed the Macellum, once a bustling marketplace, before arriving at the Nymphaeum—a beautifully adorned public fountain and my personal favorite site in Jerash.

    The tour continued uphill to the Temple of Artemis, dedicated to the city’s patron goddess. The towering Corinthian columns still stand as a testament to Roman engineering. From there, we explored the North Theater, the Church of SS Cosmas and Damian, and finally the South Theater, where, to my surprise, Jordanian bagpipers were playing. Yes, bagpipes in Jerash—it’s a thing.

    We concluded the tour at the Temple of Zeus, perched on a hill with breathtaking panoramic views of the ruins below. It was the perfect finale, showcasing Jerash’s blend of history, architecture, and stunning landscapes. As the sun dipped lower, I made my way back to the visitor center, then to my driver, and finally back to Amman.

    Farewell?

    Standing atop the Temple of Zeus, I took one last look at the ancient city below. I had just traced the footsteps of Roman citizens in a place that still feels alive with history.

    It’s surreal to find such a well-preserved Roman city in the heart of the Middle East—a place I never expected to hold such strong ties to the empire I admire. It’s a reminder that history is full of surprises, waiting to be uncovered.

    Now, with the dust of Jerash still clinging to my shoes, I turn my sights to my next destination: Egypt—another land of ancient wonders, where pharaohs and pyramids will tell stories of a different kind.