The city of stone and secrets.

If there’s one reason I’d return to Jordan, revisiting Petra would be it. Walking through this ancient Nabataean city truly feels like stepping into another world. Tucked away in the rugged canyons of southern Jordan, Petra is one of the most awe-inspiring archaeological sites on the planet—and rightfully holds its place as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

Now, most people recognize Petra from the countless social media posts featuring its iconic “gate”—which is actually The Treasury. But Petra is far more than just this one monument. The city stretches over a staggering 60 square kilometers, filled with hidden tombs, intricate facades, and even a massive amphitheater carved directly into the rock. For those willing to take on a challenge, the Monastery (Al-Deir) sits at the top of an 800-step climb, rewarding visitors with one of the most breathtaking views in Jordan.

Getting from Amman to Petra

Traveling from Amman to Petra is relatively straightforward, with several options depending on your budget, time, and schedule:

1. By Car
   If you enjoy road trips and a bit of adventure, renting a car is a great option. The drive from Amman to Petra (Wadi Musa) takes around 3 to 3.5 hours via the Desert Highway. The roads are well-maintained, and signage is clear. However, be mindful of local driving habits, frequent security checkpoints, and unexpected speed bumps. I personally wouldn’t recommend this method—once you leave the highway and approach Wadi Musa, the roads become a bit of a labyrinth. For non-locals, navigation can be tricky, especially if cell reception is spotty in the desert.
   
2. By JETT Bus
   The JETT Bus is the easiest public transport option for tourists. It’s a direct, comfortable, air-conditioned bus that departs daily from Amman’s JETT Bus Station (7th Circle) at 6:30 AM, arriving in Petra around 10:30 AM. A return bus leaves Petra at 5:00 PM. Tickets cost around 11 JOD ($15) one-way or 22 JOD ($31) round-trip, and it’s best to book in advance via their official website or at the station.
   
3. By Taxi or Private Transfer
   For a direct and hassle-free trip, hiring a private driver or taxi is a solid option. Prices range from 70–100 JOD ($100–140) one way, depending on your negotiation skills and vehicle type. This is ideal for those on a tight schedule or traveling in a small group.
   
4. By Tour Group
   Several tour operators in Amman offer day trips and multi-day excursions to Petra, often including stops at other sites like Little Petra or Wadi Rum. You can even book tours on GetYourGuide or Viator. Prices vary, but expect to pay around 50–100 JOD ($70–140) per person for a group tour, which includes transport and sometimes a guide.

Onwards!

I opted for a private transfer, booked through GetYourGuide, which cost around £100 GBP. Since I wanted to arrive at Petra right when it opened (6:30 AM in winter, 6 AM in summer) to avoid crowds, this option worked best for me. Ideally, staying overnight in Wadi Musa would have been more budget-friendly, but given the last-minute nature of my trip, factoring in hotel costs and transport, it ended up being roughly the same price.

I left Amman at 2:30 AM, and after 3.5 hours (including rest stops and refueling), I arrived at Petra Visitor Center at 6:15 AM—way too early. It completely slipped my mind that I was visiting in winter, and sunrise wasn’t for another hour and a half at least. I was so early, I scared the security guard when he found me sitting in his chair, casually waving good morning to him.

By 6:40 AM, the ticket booths were up and running. A quick scan of my Jordan Pass confirmation email, a short 5-minute walk to the entrance, and I was officially inside Petra.

A Quick PSA: The “Free” Horse Ride Scam

The moment you step inside, you’ll be approached by vendors offering horse rides, insisting that they’re ‘included in your ticket’ or ‘free’. While technically true, there’s a catch—they expect a hefty tip at the end, far more than what most would consider reasonable. If you decline, they can be quite persistent. Just respectfully, but assertively decline, and walk away. They will give up eventually and find another target. This applies for the vendors selling food, drink and souvenirs at the complex too.

But if you actually require mobility assistance, camel rides, carriages, and buggies are available for hire near the entrance, and be expected to haggle. It is the Middle East after all, it’s practically a pastime.

Trek into the Unknown

And then, the reveal.

As I turned the final bend, the breathtaking Treasury (Al-Khazneh) emerged from the shadows—completely deserted, just me and a lone cat. For a fleeting moment, I had this wonder entirely to myself. If this is what the nomads felt when they first rediscovered Petra, I completely understand why they wanted to keep it secret.

The Petra Experience

Now this is where i tell you NOT to do what i did. Since I was on a tight schedule, I only had six hours to explore Petra before heading to Wadi Rum. In my opinion, you would need at least 2 days to completely explore the humongous complex at a comfortable pace, but if you’re only there to explore the highlights, one day would be more than sufficient. While I regret not having more time, I still managed to cover a lot, including:

• Treasury
• Street of Facades
• The Theatre
• Nymphaeum
• Colonnaded Street
• The Great Temple
• Royal Tombs (partially, via Al-Khubtha Trail)

Unfortunately, I had to skip the Monastery (Al-Deir), and the much sought after viewpoint above the Treasury, which is on the other half of the Al-Khubtha Trail.

On my way out, I made a quick stop at the Petra Museum, located just up the stairs on the left of the entrance toilets. It’s free, modern, and well-organized, displaying fascinating artifacts that offer deeper insight into Petra’s multi cultural history, divulging much information about the city’s rise and fall.

Essential Tips for Visiting Petra

So after making the mistakes so you don’t have to, here are some key tips to help you navigate this ancient wonder with ease:

1. Arrive Early (or Stay Late)
   Petra opens at 6:30 AM in summer and 6:00 AM in winter. Arriving early not only lets you experience the Treasury with fewer crowds but also keeps you ahead of the midday heat in summer. If you can, staying late also offers stunning golden-hour lighting for photography.
   
2. Prepare for a Lot of Walking
   Petra is massive—spanning around 60 square kilometers, with trails that range from easy to “I’m rethinking my life decisions.”. Comfortable shoes are a must, but it does not necessarily mean hiking boots, simply choose a pair that provides both comfort and a good grip.
   
3. Bring Plenty of Water and Snacks
   There are some vendors inside Petra, but prices are steep. Bring at least 1.5–2 liters of water per person, snacks for energy, and electrolytes if visiting during hotter months.
   
4. Hire a Local Guide (If You Want the Full Story)
   While you can explore on your own, or book a tour beforehand, a local guide (available at the visitor center) provides deeper insight into Petra’s history, Nabataean culture, and hidden spots you might miss.
   
5. Stay Overnight in Wadi Musa
   If possible, spend a night in Wadi Musa, the town next to Petrai. This allows you to start early and explore at a more relaxed pace. Plus, it gives you the chance to experience Petra by Night, a candlelit event held on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays at 8:30 PM.
   
6. Plan Your Route
   If you’re short on time, you can consider trekking only the Main Route like i did, or if you have certain mobility issues, you might want to consider what trails are doable or not, as each trial vary in difficulty. Here’s the map of Petra so you can consider your route in advance.

The End?

Petra was nothing short of extraordinary—a place that truly lives up to its legendary status. While I left with a lingering sense of regret, that only gives me more reason to return and explore even deeper. The sheer scale, history, and beauty of this ancient city left an imprint on me that won’t fade anytime soon. But for now, it was time to trade the rose-red cliffs for the boundless, otherworldly expanse of Wadi Rum, where my next adventure awaited.